Build Plate Adhesion
I continually see issues with parts lifting from the bed. Not sure how many printer configurations are out there but if they have a heated glass bed there should never be a problem with parts lifting. I’ve been designing and building 3Dprinters for the last 3 ½ years, so I guess it’s fair to say that I’ve seen it all. With our systems I very rarely have issues with parts lifting and if there are issues I either have a bad STL file or I forgot to prep the bed. I’ve used PET sheets, yes they help, but some of the same problems will follow you even though you have added the PEI sheets.
Below are some general rules of thumb that I go by and they should help with adhesion issues-
- The #1 issue to check is that the bed is dead nuts flat. Make sure your glass bed is at least ¼” thick and preferable Borosilicate Glass as it can take the heat.
- Usually not an issue, but make sure your bed is heating evenly from front to back (a coil could be shorted out and only get partial heat).
- This is the #2 issue for curing adhesion problems…manually level your bed using a feeler gage, I set mine to .004/.1mm but you could go less. Make sure that your nozzle is hot before leveling.
- …or if you have an auto leveling function, check it to make sure that it’s accurate.
- Clean the glass really well with Isopropyl alcohol, any oils will create lifting issues. I usually do cleaning down to bare glass every 5 or 6 prints. In between prints I scrape the glass with a razorblade to get the old plastic off.
- Use “All Weather AquaNet Extra Super Hold” in the purple can. I spray a liberal amount, maybe a couple passes, for the first coat and let it dry maybe 2-3 minutes. Then after scraping between prints I spray a quick coat over the existing base.
- Using a slicer is a must, the supplied 3DLabPrint Gcode makes it easy for failure. Simplify3D is what I highly recommend, you will pay for it in lost prints.
- I have altered my temps and extrusion multiplier in my firmware to match the settings that are used in the 3DLabPrint S3D Factory Files, this way there are very few changes to make.
- The most important change is setting the “First Layer Settings Height” to 60%, remember I set my nozzle clearance to .004/.1mm, if you are running a .003 clearance then you could go up to 75-80% Height.
- You might say that is too close, but the good outweighs the bad. First off you will get a print that does not fail and secondly you get a nice wide gluing surface making for a good bond.
- You will also quickly find out if your bed is properly leveled. If you find your extruder backing up from the tight tolerance, raise the percentage by 5% and try again. Don’t continue until you get a good wide first layer. It should be about double of the extrusion width.
- Run your bed temp around 50-55 degrees, if it is too hot you will start to see the single walls deform close to the bed.
- The nozzle temp should be on the hot side, if you can optimize your setting to run hot you will get a much stronger wall, making the overall airframe less chance for splitting at the printed seams.
- Printer filament varies from manufacture to manufacture. If you have gone through all of these tips, you might try switching to a different roll or manufacture. Anything you get from the main suppliers typically costing around $28.00-$32.00 per roll will guarantee that you have some quality filament. I’s used some really inexpensive filament and have had great success , with other cheap stuff it always failed. I would say that moisture is #1 culprit. There are techniques for drying out your filament…Google it!
Other Notes to help with quality printing:
- If you are running Support, I always change and up the Horizontal Offset distance to 1.5mm this ensure that your support breaks away easily while still giving great support.
- Another setting I modify is the Extra Restart Distance, some of the support on the S3D forums say to run it at negative -.02 and it helps with blobs on the surface, especially around where the internal support meets the outer wall. I think that 3DLabprint runs this number a but high, causing some over extruding in these areas, I change mine to .02 in the positive.